How one of the most basic steps in any hair-care regimen is a crucial key in achieving healthy hair.

Conditioner. We all (should!) use it, and we all (hopefully!) love it. It’s the one step in our routine we can rely on to only help our hair…but what if it wasn’t? Actually, what if there’s a way conditioner can harm our hair?

Maybe the conditioner itself isn’t bad, but rather, the misuse of certain types of conditioners that can result in more harm than good. More specifically, the benefits of protein condition and hydrating conditioner differ, and without knowing those differences, there is a chance you may be damaging your hair when you think you’re helping it.

How do you know those differences? 

Protein Conditioner— while sounding only beneficial, is meant for hair that has been damaged—and nothing more. The conditioner, consisting of proteins and (sometimes) amino acids or ceramides, helps revive hair that may be damaged from chemical treatments, heat, or lack of proper attention. However, they are not meant to be used long-term. The sole purpose of protein conditioners is to repair, but too much of it can build up and result in further damage. Excess protein can impact the hydration barrier, making it harder for hair to hydrate and causing it to be weakened, dry/brittle, and break. For this reason, protein conditioners are sometimes referred to as treatments; they are meant to target a problem and solve it. Too much protein? Your hair may need hydration!

Hydrating Conditioner— is simply for hair that is too dry, and while overuse may not be as detectable, there are certainly effects of too much moisture (as hard as it is to believe!). Along with the appearance of greasy/oily hair, an excess of moisture can lead to your hair not retaining any hydration at all, hair can feel limp and fail to hold hairstyles, or even feel dry or too stretchy.

In other words, it throws off the balance and makes it difficult to absorb protein. Sometimes oily hair is a result of dryness--your hair may be trying to hydrate itself! Not everyone needs that extra boost of moisture, especially those with thinner hair, but it’s still crucial to maintain hydration no matter your hair type. Too much hydration? Your hair may need protein!

As a whole, we need a healthy balance of both protein and hydration in order to achieve happy hair—it is simply a matter of what your hair needs in the moment and how much. 

Whether or not you should be using a protein conditioner or hydrating conditioner, or even both, really comes down to the current state of your hair health. What does your hair need? What is it asking of you? How can your hair be the happiest it can be? Both conditioners have their benefits, but they also require proper use in order to reap those benefits. Care enough for your hair to learn what it needs and to understand what you are offering it. Healthy hair is happy hair!

For natural, home-made remedies and conditioners, check out:

6 Natural Hair Conditioners For Every Hair Type You Can Make At Home by Sarika Rana

Image by ​Baylee Gramling